Ride Twelve Iskele Dip Karpaz (well almost)

I ate way to much yesterday, it had been raining and after the 104 miler my body was screaming out for food. I could have eaten a rock, in fact this morning I felt like I had. I hadn't slept well either after a late night, as such I was overjoyed to hear the 'call to prayer' at 5am! I said a prayer and buried myself back under the duvet.

By 8.30 I was out pounding the roads again on Celeste. I mentioned to her that she needs a wash after the rides recently, you know when a woman goes violently silent? Bikes do the same.

Todays target was a village called Dip Karpaz. It's a straight run out along the main road with just just a couple of turnings, and two reasonable climbs, but nothing like the climbs I experienced on Mount Olympus or at Kantara recently. However, as written in the rules of cycling, where there are no hills there shalt be WIND.

The wind was strong, constant and challenging. It seemed to come at me from all three directions on the way there. The fourth direction (from behind) wasn't on Cyclops'  to do list this morning.

Passing the little fishing port village of Bogaz I made a mental note to stop there on the way back, it's always nice there but I knew if I went in on the way out I wouldn't get much further. I was feeling lethargic after a break from the bike and yesterdays pig out.

Here the road surface is very good with a good shoulder. I am impressed with the road surfaces generally here. Some may wonder why it's so important, but for a road cyclist it is crucial. Potholes, speed humps, rumble strips, loose chippings, drain covers, and debris all ad up to an accident waiting to happen, not to mention making riding harder. Rough surfaces are uncomfortable to ride over and cause things to break on the bike, like another drive side spoke on this ride.

I rode past endless olive trees, fields of wheat or barley maybe, and the ever present herds of goats and sheep. The villages out here are small, very quiet and appart from the washing hanging out on the roof tops there really isn't much to see.

 The 'markets' (small village stores) are the centre of life it  seemed to me, those and the numerous Mosques. Young Children play in the streets and wave as I pass, yelling and laughing. One little boy on his bicycle tried to race me. He won. I blamed the headwind and Cyclops.

Once off the main road (it's a right turn at the store next to the Goat and the olive tree) the terrain changed a little and became more hilly.



The wind instantly changed direction too and the headwind continued. I turned the bend and slammed on the brakes. I had been thinking about possibly seeing a snake as I know there are lot's here. Today however the 'law of attraction' only almost got it right.

Something slow, green and strange looking was crossing the road in front of me. Gordon Geko had entered my life. Gordon was taking his time. No way was he going to be rushed on his journey to the other side of the road for a mere cyclist. I stopped, jumped off Celeste and lay down in the middle of the road to say hello to Gordon properly. A rental car spluttered to a halt behind me, and a young English couple jumped out to meet Gordon too. He seemed facinated by Gordon, she was keener to get to Golden beach and top up what I hoped was her all over tan.

It was decided that as none of us knew anything about Gordons capability to inflict pain or poison on interfering tourists that it would be a good idea to pick up Gordon and see what happened. Gordon took it all in his slow, deliberate stride. Cleary all English tourists stop and pet him on their way to Golden beach. He rolled his eyes 360 and continued on his way to the other side of the road.

The goat herder in a filthy red van had had enough and lean't on his horn. The car behind joined him. I waved them goodbye and sped off down the hill, my life enriched, their stress levels increased. I felt ok with that.

I reached a junction, the second one in 30 plus miles and turned right. The sign post assured me Dip Karpaz would soon arrive. It didn't mention that the road surface would become unrideable. I took a look at the road surface, it wasn't really bad, but I had had enough broken spokes this trip already. I made and took the right decision for me and turned around. One broken spoke is rideable, two would be dangerous. I had ridden to DipKarpaz on previous visits to Cyprus and know it to be another typical village here, nothing worth risking a thirty mile walk back in the mid day sun for.

Instantly I was climbing the downhills I had just flown down. The downhill never came, as it just flattened out. The wind seemed to be coming from all directions, I guess because of the hills. When the wind here gets behind you it can really push you along. It may be rare, but it does happen. Here I was hitting 29.5mph on the flat in places, not bad for a heavy bloke on a bike.

The two elderly ladies showed me their broken teeth as they smiled like young children. I had arrived to buy a Coke. The locals here are very polite and tolerant of ignorant English cyclists who cannot be bothered to learn a single word of Turkish. The lady with least teeth stuck two fingers in the air at me and shouted 'Two' at me. Coke in her 'market' cost 2TL (Turkish Lira). I would have paid four I was so whacked after the headwinds. Coke has lot's of sugar.

The little boy was waiting for me as I rode back through his village. This time I was ready. I downed an energy gel, put on my most fierce can't be beaten face and attacked the sprint to the multi coloured plastic slides and swings at the local school next to the olive tree and the broken tractor. He was ready for me, clearly he'd been downing energy gels  for the hour or so since our last battle together. His little pink bike also had the benefit of stableizers, I was done for. We laughed and connected across two language barriers and 45 years or so age gap. Cycling does wonderful things.

The all to familier sound of the call to prayer thundered once again into my my brain. I checked the time on the Garmin, nope, not Five am. I was riding past a big Mosque and it was calling the faithfull over it's traditional mega watt PA system of doom! I jest, it is actually a wonderful sound and totally part of the soundscape of this part of Cyprus. Bit like goat noises really!

Stepping on the gas I arrived at Caesar Beach resort. I took a ride around it just to be nosey. It isn't finished yet but some of the villas there look nice. You could not live there without a car though, it's somewhat isolated. Great beach though and it will be really nice when it's all finished.


I had promised myself earlier in the ride to stop at the harbour village of Bogaz. So I did.

It's a delightful little village, with a few restaurants and cafes next to the local fishing boats in the harbour. I rode up to the sea wall and noticed two other cyclists taking a rest on the harbour wall.  Cyclists are always good people and have stories to tell.

Esen and Birgul had ridden from Famagusta to Bogaz . We chatted about cycling, the island, and scuba diving. Apparently there is a scuba dive shop in Famagusta and I was invited to go scuba diving. This I would like to do. I have a Padi Advanced Open water qualification but haven't been underwater in about eight years. But it wouldn't take long to get back into the swing of it I reckon. However Esen told me it was COLD down there recently and a full wet suit is a must. Such a rubber garment I forgot to pack.  It's a rare thing to meet other cyclists here in the Northern part of Cyprus. There are many on the other side of the Green line but here I have only ever met one other rider, so it was cool to meet with these two fellow riders!

The short sprint back to Iskele was blessed with a tail wind and I was soon belting along, all the time listening to the rythmic click from my broken spoke. I was breathing deeply when wham! I huge bug flew right into my open mouth. I spat it out instantly and thanked Cyclops, the God of all things Cycling, for providing me with a non stinging variety of mega bug.

67.77 miles
Max speed 38.2 mph ( I reckon I can claim 70mph given headwinds today !)